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The reality of Chinatown is
that there are two
Chinatowns: One belongs to
the locals, the other charms
the tourists. They overlap
and dance with each other,
drawing more visitors
annually than the Golden
Gate Bridge. Chinatown
Why the popularity? Because
visitors expect something
they won't find anywhere
else. They expect to be
stunned and enchanted and
stuffed with great food. And
they will.
You don't need an itinerary
to tackle Chinatown.
Wandering aimlessly, weaving
between locals and ducking
into shops is enough of a
plan. Main Street for
tourists is Grant Avenue,
which is more about cheap
and kitschy plastic Buddhas
than the long heritage of
Chinatown. It should
definitely be seen, but
moving on to the next block
can be more rewarding.
Best time?
For deep immersion into
Chinatown, be sure to
examine the many produce and
live markets that line
Stockton Street (between
Columbus and Broadway) on a
Saturday afternoon. That is
where the locals do their
shopping, and Saturday is
the busiest day. Untrained
Western eyes may find the
sight of live turtles,
chickens and other animals
peculiar, but the markets
are definitely interesting.
Coupled with the clogged
streets and the shouting
matches over bok choy, they
make for an all-day
attraction.
Exploring the pocket-size
side streets at night is
another great way to run
into something unforeseen.
Dive bars in Chinatown are
small, dark and moody, with
locals playing dice and
visitors wandering in with
curious looks on their
faces.
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